How to Order at an Izakaya in Kanazawa: The Japanese You Actually Need

An izakaya is a Japanese pub that takes its food seriously. You sit down, order a drink, then keep ordering small plates for as long as the night lasts. Kanazawa has plenty of them, from tiny counters in Kiguramachi to big, loud places in Katamachi.

They are also where a lot of visitors get nervous. The menu may be handwritten, the staff may be busy, and everyone around you seems to know exactly what to do.

I’m an English coach in Kanazawa. My job is helping Japanese people get comfortable speaking English. This article is the reverse: the small amount of Japanese that makes an izakaya easy for you. You do not need grammar. You need about ten phrases and a little confidence.

Before you sit down

When you walk in, a staff member will usually ask how many people are in your group. You can say the number in Japanese, or just hold up your fingers. Both work.

Hitori desu. (hee-toh-ree dess) — “Just one.” Futari desu. (foo-tah-ree dess) — “Two of us.”

If the place looks full or quiet and you are not sure it is open to walk-ins, it is completely fine to ask:

Daijoubu desu ka? (die-joe-boo dess kah) — “Is it OK?”

Say it with a small gesture toward the seats and people will understand.

Getting someone’s attention

This is the one that surprises people most. In many izakaya, staff will not come to your table on their own. You call them. It is not rude. It is how the system works.

Sumimasen! (soo-mee-mah-sen) — “Excuse me!”

Say it clearly, raise your hand a little, and someone will come. Some places have a small call button on the table instead. If you see one, press it.

Ordering drinks

Most people start with a drink, and the most common first order in Japan is a draft beer.

Nama biiru, onegaishimasu. (nah-mah bee-roo, oh-neh-guy-shee-mass) — “A draft beer, please.”

Onegaishimasu is the magic word. Put it after almost anything and you have made a polite request. If you don’t drink alcohol, ask for oolong cha (oolong tea), which almost every izakaya has.

Once the drinks arrive, everyone at the table raises their glass:

Kanpai! (kahn-pie) — “Cheers!”

Ordering food

Izakaya food comes in small plates, meant for sharing. Order two or three dishes, see what you like, then order more. There is no need to plan the whole meal at the start.

If you can’t read the menu, point at the item and say:

Kore o kudasai. (koh-reh oh koo-dah-sigh) — “This one, please.”

If you want to try what the place is proud of, this is the most useful question in this whole article:

Osusume wa nan desu ka? (oh-soo-soo-meh wah nahn dess kah) — “What do you recommend?”

Staff are often happy to point at something, and the recommendation is usually seasonal. In Kanazawa that can mean local fish, and in winter, crab.

You can also ask if there is an English menu. Some places have one, many don’t, and asking is never a problem:

Eigo no menyuu wa arimasu ka? (ay-go no men-yoo wah ah-ree-mass kah) — “Do you have an English menu?”

The small dish you didn’t order

A few minutes after you sit down, a small dish may arrive that you never asked for. Maybe some pickled vegetables, a bit of simmered fish, or a little salad.

This is called otoshi. It is not a mistake and it is not free. It works like a cover charge: it is added to your bill per person, and the price is usually a few hundred yen. Some menus call it a “table charge” or “cover charge”. Not every izakaya does this, and some will skip it if you ask, but in general it is a normal part of eating out in Japan, not a trick played on tourists.

If you want to know before you sit down, you can ask:

Otoshi wa arimasu ka? (oh-toh-shee wah ah-ree-mass kah) — “Is there an otoshi?”

Paying the bill

When you are ready to leave, call a staff member and say:

Okaikei onegaishimasu. (oh-kai-kay oh-neh-guy-shee-mass) — “The bill, please.”

You can also make a small X with your two index fingers. That gesture means “check, please” in Japan, and staff will understand it from across a noisy room.

In many izakaya you pay at the register near the door, not at the table. Take the bill they give you, or just walk to the register when you leave.

Two more things to know:

• There is no tipping in Japan. Not at izakaya, not at bars, not anywhere. If you leave extra money on the table, staff may think you forgot it.
• Cash is still common. More and more places take cards and QR payments, but small, older izakaya can be cash only. It is a good idea to carry some yen.

All-you-can-drink and set courses

You will sometimes see nomihoudai on a menu. It means all-you-can-drink for a fixed time, often with a set course of food. It is popular with groups. If you are one or two people and want to try a few different dishes, ordering à la carte is usually more fun.

The ten phrases, in one place

Screenshot this part if you like.

Japanese	Pronunciation	Meaning
Hitori / Futari desu	hee-toh-ree / foo-tah-ree dess	One / two of us
Sumimasen!	soo-mee-mah-sen	Excuse me!
Nama biiru, onegaishimasu	nah-mah bee-roo, oh-neh-guy-shee-mass	A draft beer, please
Kanpai!	kahn-pie	Cheers!
Kore o kudasai	koh-reh oh koo-dah-sigh	This one, please
Osusume wa nan desu ka?	oh-soo-soo-meh wah nahn dess kah	What do you recommend?
Eigo no menyuu wa arimasu ka?	ay-go no men-yoo wah ah-ree-mass kah	Do you have an English menu?
Otoshi wa arimasu ka?	oh-toh-shee wah ah-ree-mass kah	Is there a cover dish?
Okaikei onegaishimasu	oh-kai-kay oh-neh-guy-shee-mass	The bill, please
Gochisousama deshita	go-chee-soh-sah-mah desh-tah	Thank you for the meal

The last one is what you say on the way out. You don’t have to, but staff always notice it, and it is a very nice way to end the night.

A last word from a teacher

In my lessons, the thing that holds people back is usually not vocabulary. It is the fear of getting it wrong. The same goes for you here. Nobody in a Kanazawa izakaya expects perfect Japanese from a visitor. A clear sumimasen and a smile will get you a long way.

When you’re ready for specific places, the Kanazawa Nightlife Guide lists the bars and izakaya I have visited myself, area by area.